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		<title>Mycomplasma Haemolamae in Alpacas</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=153</link>
		<comments>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=153#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Nov 2011 18:03:10 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Education]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Farm Tips]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Mycomplasma Haemolamae in Alpacas September 06, 2011 By: Internet Sources-Owning-Alpacas.com and Mike Six Mycomplasma Haemolamae in Alpacas Saving Your Alpacas&#8217; Life Saving your alpacas&#8217; life from one of the known alpaca diseases that you may not have heard of, but should be aware of, is Mycomplasma Haemolamae (MH). It is a Silent Killer! MH has [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Mycomplasma Haemolamae in Alpacas</strong><br />
September 06, 2011<br />
By: Internet Sources-Owning-Alpacas.com and Mike Six<br />
Mycomplasma Haemolamae in Alpacas<br />
Saving Your Alpacas&#8217; Life</p>
<p>Saving your alpacas&#8217; life from one of the known alpaca diseases that you may not have heard of, but should be aware of, is Mycomplasma Haemolamae (MH). It is a Silent Killer! MH has been detected since the 1990&#8242;s and was called Eperythrozoonosis or EPE. Recently the name has changed in the medical community for camelids, but it&#8217;s still the same disease. Alpaca health is very important to an alpaca business. Educating yourself about this disease will help protect your investment. </p>
<p>Important Information:<br />
If you have an animal that is lethargic with chronic weight loss and has light or heavy anemia you should consider Mycomplasma Haemolamae (MH) as a possible cause and start tetracycline treatment immediately. Weight loss can be +/- ¾ of a pound per day, lethargy and anemia happens very quickly. Then the alpaca can die within days without treatment. The alpaca’s response will be quick and over the 10 days of treatment they will respond with weight gain, less lethargy and less anemia until they are back to normal and gaining their weight back in just a short period of time. (See Treatment below)</p>
<p>If you call your vet and they draw blood for testing, ask for the blood to be tested by Oregon State University. OSU has the only lab testing for MH in the country. OSU holds the patent for the process and I have not found another lab or university who performs the testing. If blood is sent for testing it must be in a purple top test tube, handled and processed properly and delivered imediately to OSU. OSU will provide your vet with the handling and shipping procedures, found on their web site. OSU does testing on Thursday&#8217;s and if your sample arrives late it does not get tested until the next testing day which is Thursday of the next week although they claim 1-3 days turn around. Results can be delayed causing death prior to recieving them. Also if the blood is handled improperly or the alpaca has had antibiotics or some types of worming medication prior to testing, the results can be affected. Treat your alpaca imediately and then wait for the results. You will find that if it is positive for MH your ahead of the dying curve. If it is negative you have not hurt your alpaca with tetracycline treatments.</p>
<p>Mycomplasma Haemolamae is a bacterium that attaches itself to the red blood cells of an alpaca. The immune system recognizes this as a problem and destroys the red blood cells. Your alpaca then becomes anemic. In the majority of alpacas infected with these bacteria, there are no signs of the disease. If your animal becomes immunocompromised through another one of the alpaca diseases or is stressed from a move or through other environmental changes, Mycomplasma Haemolamae can rear its ugly head. Because of the immunocompromised condition of the alpaca, other opportunistic parasites like strongyles, nematodes, coccidia, EMAC, clostridium A, B, C etc., can quickly infect the alpaca and Mycomplasma Haemolamae symptoms could be masked by the similar symptoms from these other parasites and illnesses. Many animals have died from Mycomplasma Haemolamae with an incorrect necropsy. Most vets and/or labs do not look for Mycomplasma Haemolamae during necropsy or even during standard blood panels. What usually comes back is anemia with high counts of white blood cells. This should be an alarm and treatment should start imediately to prevent death.</p>
<p>The disease can manifest as an acute problem. Your alpaca may suddenly be unable to stand and be extremely weak. Or it may be a chronic problem. As mentioned before, your alpaca may have chronic weight loss and lethargy. Anemia is one of the last symptoms to appear. Check for anemia by raising the eyelid of the alpaca. It should be bright pink and/or red looking (healthy) This is called the FAMCHA method found in the sheep and goat industry. Pale pink and/or white or almost white is close to death by intense anemia.</p>
<p>If you suspect infection with Mycomplasma Haemolamae, have your vet do a PCR (polymer chain reaction) test from OSU. This test amplifies the DNA so low levels of the bacteria can be detected on the red blood cells. In case you cannot get the PCR results back from your vet or lab in a timely manner like (1-3) days, start treatment immediately, especially if you have exhausted all other potential causes. This disease is a KILLER and once your alpaca is weak and down it is only days to hours to save their life, maybe.</p>
<p>This is one of the alpaca diseases thought to be spread by blood. Blood sucking insects such as biting flies, mosquitoes, lice, fleas, and ticks should be kept to a minimum on your farm. Only use a clean unused needle on each individual alpaca when giving injections. Needles are cheap. There is no reason to reuse a needle on another alpaca and risk the chance of transmitting any disease (besides, you dull the needle after the first use and it hurts more). Biting flies can be controlled by placing fly predators around poop piles and in areas of fly population. (search: (fly predators) on the net &#8211; they really work) Fly traps and Fly Stix help as well but do not elliminate the root of the problem like fly predators, they really work cutting the fly problem by 70 to 90% in a season. They last for 2-3 years or more without placing more. Having chickens free range with your alpacas can eliminate many parasites like ticks, (1 chicken can consume 500 ticks per day) fleas and other biting and sucking insects.</p>
<p>Treatment:<br />
Mycomplasma Haemolamae is treated with tetracycline (LA200) (other brands of tetracycline are available but make sure they are the same strength as LA200) at your local farmer’s co-op a very common antibiotic. The dosage normally used is (.045) X (body weight) subcutaneously for 5 doses given every other day. Tetracycline is an over the counter drug and does not need to be prescribed by your vet. Check with a vet for dosages if you are unsure. Unfortunately, it appears that tetracycline does not completely rid the infected animal of these bacteria, but only lowers it to safe undetectable levels and save your alpacas life. </p>
<p>Once infected, an alpaca becomes a carrier known as a &#8220;tick&#8221; in the cattle industry. They will not have problems with the disease unless they become immunocompromised. This is an opportunistic bacterium. </p>
<p>The problem with having a carrier in your herd is that a fly could bite the carrier and then bite another animal passing on the bacterium. If you live near other livestock,(horses, cattle, sheep, goats etc..) this disease can be contracted from them via biting and sucking insects moving to your farm and making contact with your alpacas.</p>
<p>If you suspect Mycomplazma Haemolamae in an alpaca, you should probably test your whole herd and treat any animal with positive PCR results. Otherwise, you could have a reinfection of the disease. Not totally necessary if you are watching your alpacas closely for changes in normal conditions especially their weight. Young alpacas and cria seem to be affected much quicker that an adult. Probably because they weigh less and have less blood. Test and treat your suspected alpaca(s) who seem to have chronic weight issues. Then if positive consider doing others or all in the herd. Watch weight closely as it is the primary symptom that is recognizable without the interference of other opportunistic parasites.</p>
<p>Treated animals usually go on to live a long healthy life. Even though they have not gotten rid of the disease, they can live with it. </p>
<p>It&#8217;s important to weigh or evaluate alpacas when sheared or learn body scoring so you can spot a thin alpaca being a potential carrier of Mycomplasma Haemolamae. You should, also, require a PCR test from OSU before purchasing. The Mycomplasma Haemolamae carrier may look fine, but you bring them home and they infect your herd causing problems. Biting flys can be found everywhere and your alpaca can be bitten at your farm, during transport or even at an alpaca show and become a carrier back on your farm. A carrier can be healthly not showing signs for months or even years.</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a couple of interesting facts about camelid red blood cells:<br />
• They have a lifespan of 235 days vs. 100 days for human red blood cells<br />
• Camelids have oval red blood cells instead of round like other mammals. This gives them a larger surface area so there is better oxygen exchange which helps them survive at higher, thinner air altitudes in their native South America.</p>
<p>The unusual shape of an alpaca’s red blood cell makes understanding alpaca diseases a challenge to veterinarians. </p>
<p>Mycomplasma Haemolamae is thought to be in 25% or more of Camelids (alpacas and llamas) in the United States. More studies are being done to try and eliminate alpaca diseases. Until something better is found for Mycoplasma Haemolamae, keep the insect population down on your farm and test and treat to keep it in check if present. </p>
<p>Remember: Your Vet Does Not Save Your Alpaca’s Life. YOU DO!</p>
<p>&#8220;I am not a vet&#8221;, but an experienced alpaca owner. When I say experienced I mean, having experienced the effects of this silent killer disease first hand. I have seen animals die on my farm and other farms, with most necropsies determining the death of the alpaca was from common parasites, heat stroke, failure to thrive or some other educated guess from the vet(s). This is done without the exact testing for MH. Without these tests it is the vet&#8217;s best guess. Remember, other parasites become opportunistic during the process of this disease. The alpaca cannot fight anything else because it is busy fighting MH by attacking its own red blood cells, hence anemia. The alpaca dies quickly. Once you see an alpaca die from this disease with all parasite and other medical treatments doing nothing to stop it you will never let it happen again! I am not a vet, but an experienced alpaca owner. If you are not sure about the information I have given, call your vet and discuss MH with them prior to treatment, then get a second opinion and maybe a third. </p>
<p>My personal opinion is that hundreds if not thousands of alpacas have died in the U.S. from MH without the knowledge of the vet or the owner. Many times the death is blamed on something else, failure to thrive, heat stroke, internal parasites etc. How many times was this just an &#8220;semi-educated guess&#8221;? I think many! When you hear of multiple death&#8217;s on an alpaca farm(s) around the country it creates the alpaca disease of the year fear. Every year something new hits, SNOTS, EMAC, Barber Pole Worm and so on, and the blame is placed unknowningly on the new found disease of the year. Then the &#8220;experts&#8221; begin to give a series of seminars on the new fear. Be safe rather than sorry and treat for MH during these so called outbreaks and you may save your alpacas&#8217; life.</p>
<p>Giving LA200 in the dosage mentioned earlier is Risk Free and can do nothing to harm your alpaca, and it can&#8217;t hurt even if the alpaca is by chance, ill from something else. Most vets do not recognize this disease and little is written about it, even in the Norm Evans field manual, it is just a mention. Most of the articles I have found do not stress the seriousness or deadliness of MH. </p>
<p>Educating yourself can save your alpaca investment, money spent on vet assistance and your alpacas.</p>
<p>Feel free to copy this information and pass it to other alpaca owners. Knowledge is Power!</p>
<p>Be aware, I am not a trained vet and many may poo poo this article. I say, poo poo back! Time will tell&#8230;. To date, passing this information has saved many alpacas and I am sure many more to come!</p>
<p>Thank you for the information about MH found on the web at: owning-alpacas.com, OSU, and other internet sites reviewed, (the word is getting out and alpaca lives are being saved), but even as you read this there is an alpaca dead or dying from Mycomplasma Haemolamae unknown to the owner and their vet.</p>
<p>Alpaca owners, potential owners vets&#8217;, techs&#8217; if you would like to discuss this further or if you have any questions contact me anytime.</p>
<p>Michael Six<br />
Owner/Operator<br />
Morning Moon Alpacas, Inc. http://www.morningmoonalpacas.com/<br />
417.235.5171</p>
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		<title>A-OK News</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=14</link>
		<comments>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=14#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 13 Sep 2011 02:42:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>aokadmin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[A-OK News]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Upcoming Events]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[A-OK is excited to announce the 2012 Summer Educational Seminar! This event will be held Saturday June 16th at OSU facilities in Stillwater, OK. Please see the Seminar page for details. A-OK is happy to announce the 2012 AOK Blastoff Show&#8217;s Photo Contest Winners! 2012 Photo Winners A-OK is proud to announce the 2012 AOK [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>A-OK is excited to announce the 2012 Summer Educational Seminar!  This event will be held Saturday June 16th at OSU facilities in Stillwater, OK.  Please see the <a href="http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?page_id=63"> Seminar </a> page for details.</p>
<p>A-OK is happy to announce the 2012 AOK Blastoff Show&#8217;s Photo Contest Winners! <a href="http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Alpacas-of-Oklahoma-2012-Blastoff-Photo-Contest-Winners.pdf">2012 Photo Winners</a></p>
<p>A-OK is proud to announce the 2012 AOK Blastoff Show&#8217;s new date &#8211; April 6-8, 2012 @ the Heart of Oklahoma Expo Center in Shawnee, OK.  Please visit <a href="http://alpacablastoff.com"> AlpacaBlastoff&#8217;s website</a> for complete details and information.</p>
<p>A-OK will host another valuable educational event &#8211; Learning to Sort and Skirt.  This event will be held March 18th @ 1:30PM at the JRAlpacas farm.  Please see the <a href="http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?page_id=63"> Seminar </a> page for complete details.</p>
<p>A-OK will have a booth at the Winter Quilt Show Jan 12th-14th 2012 in OKC at the Cox Convention Center. Please come visit and help spread the news and information on alpacas and our show in April.<br />
Please visit<a href="http://qscexpos.com/oklahoma.htm"> Winter Quilt Show</a></p>
<p>A-OK has been working hard to support education in Alpaca medicine. We have made another Donation to OSU.<br />
<a href='http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/07/A-OK-Memorial_Contribution_to_OSU1.doc'>A OK Memorial_Contribution_to_OSU</a></p>
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		<title>Nice and Easy Drench</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=41</link>
		<comments>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=41#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Dec 2007 17:03:04 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Farm Tips]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[I was reading the &#8220;fleet hint&#8221; and thought I&#8217;d add that you can buy aquarium tubing from Wal-Mart, or a pet store.  The aquarium tubing will fit on a syringe end to make a nice drench.  I have used it for a cria needing Dyne and he took the tube well. I could easily cut [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial">I was reading the &#8220;fleet hint&#8221; and thought I&#8217;d add that you can buy aquarium tubing from Wal-Mart, or a pet store.<span>  </span>The aquarium tubing will fit on a syringe end to make a nice drench.<span>  </span>I have used it for a cria needing Dyne and he took the tube well. I could easily cut it to a size he could manage.  Take the syringe with you shopping to make sure you get the right size for its end.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 10pt; font-family: Arial"><font size="2" face="Arial">Solid Rock Alpacas</font></p>
<p></span></p>
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		<title>New Location for Bluebonnet Llama Supreme Feed</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=39</link>
		<comments>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=39#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 26 Oct 2007 10:41:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Farm Tips]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Good news, A-OK has located a new source of the high quality alpaca feed used by many A-OK members. Hale&#8217;s Feed and Seed 11338 N. E. 23rd St Nicoma Park, Ok Jeff @ 769-2711 Hales Feed and Seed is making a special effort to stock Bluebonnet products, so please utilize the products and services sold [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good news, A-OK has located a new source of the high quality alpaca feed used by many A-OK members.</p>
<p>Hale&#8217;s Feed and Seed<br />
11338 N. E. 23rd St<br />
Nicoma Park, Ok</p>
<p>Jeff @ 769-2711</p>
<p>Hales Feed and Seed is making a special effort to stock Bluebonnet products, so please utilize the products and services sold by this fine outlet. Hales can also special order products such as corn gluten for spring use.</p>
<p>Ed Downs<br />
Kindred Spirits Ranch</p>
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		<title>Quick Shade and Wind Block</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=36</link>
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		<pubDate>Mon, 03 Sep 2007 10:37:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[Do you need a quick source of temporary shade or perhaps a wall to block the wind?  Well, with a few 4 ft X 8 ft sheets of cheap particle board (I also hear it called chip board or press board, I can not remember the official name) and a few T-post, you can erect [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><img border="0" align="left" width="225" src="/images/shade1.jpg" hspace="5" alt="Shade and wind block" height="169" style="width: 225px; height: 169px" title="Shade and wind block" />Do you need a quick source of temporary shade or perhaps a wall to block the wind?  Well, with a few 4 ft X 8 ft sheets of cheap particle board (I also hear it called chip board or press board, I can not remember the official name) and a few T-post, you can erect a surprisingly sturdy &#8220;wall&#8221; in just a few minutes that will cast a good shadow in the mornings and, hot, late afternoons, as well as block a stiff wind. As the photos show, I have used this technique as low walls for my temporary paddock shelters, but they can also serve as stand alone walls in a field. When constructed in the shape of a 16 ft X 16 ft &#8220;T&#8221; and <img border="0" align="right" width="225" src="/images/shade2.jpg" hspace="5" alt="Shade and wind block" height="169" style="width: 225px; height: 169px" title="Shade and wind block" />positioned with the wind in mind, they become a popular gathering point for shade and avoidance of strong, cold, winter winds.</p>
<p>The T-post should extend about 2&#8243; to 4&#8243; above the wood so that a bungee can be used to strap the T-post together. I use high quality bungees that I purchased at Lowe’s Home Center which stand up well to UV abuse. Do not buy the &#8220;bag o’ bungees&#8221; type of product that Wall Mart sells. They will rot in just a few weeks. Some of my boards are over two years old and still holding up well. Last year the steel structure of one of my shelters was smashed down by a micro burst, but the &#8220;temporary walls&#8221; stood up and kept the structure from flattening to the ground. No alpacas were injured.</p>
<p>The photos show the popularity of the shade offered and some construction details.</p>
<p><img border="0" align="left" width="225" src="/images/shade3.jpg" alt="Shade and wind block" height="169" style="width: 225px; height: 169px" title="Shade and wind block" /><img border="0" align="right" width="225" src="/images/shade4.jpg" alt="Shade and wind block" height="169" style="width: 225px; height: 169px" title="Shade and wind block" /></p>
<p><font color="#fcf4ea">.</font></p>
<p><font color="#fcf4ea">.</font></p>
<p><font color="#fcf4ea">.</font></p>
<p><font color="#fcf4ea">.</font></p>
<p><font color="#fcf4ea">.</font></p>
<p>Ed Downs<br />
Kindred Spirits Ranch</p>
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		<title>Getting a Drench Down an Alpaca</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=35</link>
		<comments>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=35#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Aug 2007 12:47:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Farm Tips]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Getting a Drench Down an Alpaca or Inspiration Born of Desperation]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><center><strong>Getting a Drench Down an Alpaca<br />
or</strong><br />
<strong>Inspiration Born of Desperation</strong></center</p>
<p>Case in point; my alpaca and I were involved in a struggle. I was trying to get a drench down my alpaca’s throat and he was trying to prevent it. The stupid fancy syringe thingee I had bought was awkward and required at least one free hand and a cooperative alpaca, I didn’t have either.</p>
<p>When most, if not all, of the drench ended on the ground or all over me I stomped off to the shed for more, muttering as I went. When I reached for more medication my eye fell on the new bottle of Fleets enema. This brings up another hint, always keep some around for a plugged up new cria. I looked at the long soft flexible tip and the light bulb went off over my head, I dumped out the contents, popped out the valve, rinsed out the bottle and poured in my drench. My alpaca was waiting with his ears back and his jaws clamped shut. The Fleets bottle worked like a charm. I slipped the tip into the side of his mouth between the front and back teeth and squeezed and to his surprise he swallowed it all. I have used a Fleets bottle to drench electrolytes and/or Gator Aid, Thyroid and Corid. Once in awhile I even use it for its intended purpose. They are very cheap and found at any drug or grocery store.</p>
<p>Karon Storm<br />
Storm Haven Alpacas</p>
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		<title>Dog Doors</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=34</link>
		<comments>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=34#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 14 Aug 2007 13:02:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Farm Tips]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Our herd at Kindred Spirits Ranch presently lives in four large paddocks, divided by a long center isle. Alpaca safety dictates that these paddocks be protected by high quality fencing and gates. The question is, how do we allow our Great Pyrenees guardian dogs access to all of the paddock areas while keeping the alpacas [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Our herd at Kindred Spirits Ranch presently lives in four large paddocks, divided by a long center isle. Alpaca safety dictates that these paddocks be protected by high quality fencing and gates. The question is, how do we allow our Great Pyrenees guardian dogs access to all of the paddock areas while keeping the alpacas contained?</p>
<p><img border="0" vspace="5" align="left" width="225" src="http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/images/doggate1.jpg" hspace="5" alt="Special dog doors for easy access to all the paddocks" height="179" style="width: 225px; height: 179px" title="Special dog doors for easy access to all the paddocks" />The answer has turned out to be dog doors in the fences. The doors I constructed are made of soft steel and welded together. Strong wood would do, but in any case, the door frame must be driven into the ground quite securely. I have five or six heavy chains hanging from the top of the door. This discourages alpacas from using the doors but does not even slow down a 140 lb Pyr. They must be strong, as the Pyrs hit them at a full run. The doors are only 20 inches high and 18 to 20 inches in width.</p>
<p><img border="0" vspace="5" align="right" width="200" src="http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/images/doggate2.jpg" hspace="5" alt="Close of dog door.  The chain keeps alpacas from going through." height="191" style="width: 200px; height: 191px" title="Close of dog door.  The chain keeps alpacas from going through." />My older, experienced, male Pyr took about 10 minutes to become completely comfortable with their use. Our Pyr puppy immediately discovered that the doors were a shortcut to getting into more trouble and never hesitated to use them. We did have one cria, separated from her mother for weaning follow a dog through the door and we did need to block the door for a short time. Male alpacas living only a fence line away never did use the doors for a &#8220;date.&#8221; Alpacas will stick their heads through the doors to eat grass on the other side, but have not passed through the door to dine. See the photos for details.</p>
<p>Ed Downs<br />
Kindred Spirits Ranch</p>
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		<title>Preparing for the Aged Llama</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=29</link>
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		<pubDate>Sun, 05 Aug 2007 02:37:30 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Education]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Preparing for the Aged Llama Karen I. Timm D.V.M., Ph.D. Bradford B. Smith D.V.M., Ph.D. College of Veterinary Medicine, Oregon State University Just as preparation for birthing begins before a female is bred, preparation for aging begins with proper selection of a llama and continues throughout the animal’s life. The goals of caring for an [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h1>Preparing for the Aged Llama</h1>
<p>Karen I. Timm D.V.M., Ph.D.<br />
Bradford B. Smith D.V.M., Ph.D.<br />
College of Veterinary Medicine, Oregon State University</p>
<p>Just as preparation for birthing begins before a female is bred, preparation for aging begins with proper selection of a llama and continues throughout the animal’s life. The goals of caring for an aging llama are to maintain health, comfort and reproduction for as many years as possible. Beginning with an animal that is healthy, with no obvious problems, is an excellent start.</p>
<p>By selecting a llama with good conformation, you’ll have a greater chance that the animal will remain sound as it ages as compared to an animal with obvious conformational defects such as crooked legs. See the article, “The whys and what-for of leg conformation,” in the Winter-Spring 1998 Alpaca Registry Journal. Crooked legs do not provide the optimal biomechanical column of support for the animal. The unusual forces acting on the joint tissues of a crooked leg tend to cause constant pulling and stretching of the tendons, ligaments and joint capsules supporting the joint. In time, the body responds with increased tissue production in the ligaments, joint capsules and bone; these are the enlarged joints of old age. The result is arthritis, pain, and lameness. Some have questioned why importation screening criteria focused so heavily on leg conformation. Firstly, there was concern that poor leg structure might be heritable and passed on to future generations. Secondly, and of equal concern, was the likelihood that animals imported with crooked legs would be more likely to have joint problems as they aged.</p>
<p>Fitness and optimal body condition is as important in the llama as it is in the human. Exercise is good for any species; it maintains good bone, tendon, muscle and ligament strength as well as helping with weight management. With a consistent exercise program, bones, tendons and ligaments strengthen along with muscles. Does this conjure up images of llamas on treadmills? That’s not really what we’re encouraging, but consider the llama’s natural environment. In their natural environment, llamas move to pasture daily, move around to graze and then move back from pasture to shelter at night. Moreover, some of them go for miles to get to their pastures. And this is only the animals that are not working. Those animals that are working are packing loads, at times for many miles. If your pastures are designed so that your animals can move around, especially up and down some hills, they will at least get some exercise. This is certainly preferable to the llama that just hangs out waiting for the next serving from the pizza bar. The fat animal of any age is more likely to break down, especially at the fetlocks, than the fit animal. Besides the added stress of obesity on the joints, obesity causes the heart to work harder and can result in poor reproduction and poor milk production.</p>
<p>Body-scoring and keeping track of your animal’s weight is very important. Every time you are working with an animal you should perform a body-score assessment and make a note in its record. Minimally, animals should be body-scored every three months and as they age they should be body-scored more frequently. Abrupt changes in weight are always of concern. Separating the fat animals and putting them on a weight reduction plan is paramount. Methods of weight reduction for an obese animal (body score of 5/5) should be developed in consultation with your veterinarian. Rapid weight reduction can precipitate metabolic problems such as hepatic lipidosis (Alpaca Registry Journal, Vol. III, No. 1, 1998, pp. 22-28), and can be very dangerous for the animal. As the weight loss experts tell us, slow and steady weight reduction in an organized program is the way to go.</p>
<p>Actually, more common in the geriatric population, is the tendency towards weight loss. Of 36 llamas in a geriatric study (defined as over 12 years old), 55 percent were thin, with 10 percent being emaciated (body-score of 1). Thirty-two percent were optimal weight, 6.5 percent were fat (body-score of 4), and 6.5 percent were obese (body-score of 5). Factors that may contribute to weight loss in an older animal are bad teeth, decreasing ability to absorb nutrients, shifts in social status, and excessive milk production. It is especially important to watch for changes in the social status of aging animals. The female that was always first to the feed may get pushed out as she ages. Additionally, she may have some arthritis that causes her to be slower in grazing and moving to the feed.</p>
<p>Assessment of the teeth should be done more frequently as the animal ages. Dental health directly influences the overall health of the llama. Good teeth throughout life will maximize the animal’s ability to chew its food properly and will help with proper absorption of nutrients. Some of the geriatric llamas in the previously mentioned study had level molar arcades. This is optimal. Admittedly, the teeth were worn flat so they were not grinding as efficiently as they did when they were younger, but the animal could still chew freely. A llama that has large hooks and a severe wave pattern of the cheek teeth is not going to be able to chew freely. This condition causes the animal to chew slowly and hold balls of feed in the cheeks. Some cases of wave-mouth in older animals are so bad that no amount of corrective dentistry can come close to restoration of normal chewing.</p>
<p>Ideally, the llama’s incisor teeth occlude with the dental pad throughout its life. The animal should not need to have its incisor teeth trimmed. However, if you do have an animal with incisor teeth protruding beyond the dental pad, it is very important to regularly trim to keep the teeth as close to the normal occlusion as possible. Do not wait until teeth are protruding over an inch or more before trimming. Proper occlusion of the incisor teeth and dental pad allows for ease of food intake and allows molar teeth to meet in a normal manner and wear normally. Unseen, uneven wear of molar teeth will cause chewing problems in the long term. The molar teeth should be checked regularly, starting at about five years of age. Looking at your llama’s molar teeth is not an easy task. Although you can easily check the incisors, fighting teeth and premolars, llamas’ mouths generally do not open far enough to see the molar teeth without the use of sedation, a small flashlight, and veterinary assistance.</p>
<p>Tooth root abscesses are another concern. Anytime you’re working with your llama you should run your hands along the lower jaw to make certain there is no expansion of the jaw bone which might indicate a molar abscess. In addition, a sore open area on the jaw that looks like a wound may actually be a drain for an abscessed tooth. If you have any questions about the possibility of a tooth root abscess, you should check with your veterinarian. If a decision is made to remove the tooth, remember that the opposing tooth from the other jaw will not wear normally and will periodically have to be filed as the other molar teeth wear. That opposing tooth can eventually bump the bare gum where the tooth was removed. The pain could prevent the llama from eating well. Animals with minimal teeth may need an entire dietary supplement of pellets or feeds developed for older animals. These feeds may include a liquid gruel that is used with animals whose teeth are essentially all gone. Again, we stress that preparation for aging begins with selection of the animal and continues with management throughout the animal’s life.</p>
<p>With aging, digestive processes change and efficient absorption of nutrients decreases. If you have an older animal that is losing weight and the teeth are okay, there are no social problems, the animal still moves well, parasitism is not a problem, and she is not nursing a cria, consider that she may not be absorbing nutrients as well as she used to. Boosting the nutrition of an aging animal can best be accomplished initially by increasing the carbohydrates (i.e. grains) in the diet. If the animal does not pick up weight, your veterinarian should evaluate the animal and create a plan for weight gain.</p>
<p>Reproduction in the aging llama can become more problematic. Some females will continue to produce a cria each year without difficulty. For example, one geriatric llama produced 19 crias in her 22 years! She still had good leg conformation and good teeth, but she was no longer maintaining a healthy weight. She was retired from breeding. Some females may conceive but then lose the fetus early on, and some may be such good milkers that nursing a cria drags them too far down in body condition. Some people choose to spread out the birthing interval in older females to allow them to recover body weight before the next cria. There can be issues with lowered fertility during heavy milking, so a very long birthing interval is a possibility. Early weaning of a good strong cria is also something to consider. Remember that if you have an animal with a dystocia at any time in its life, damage to the reproductive tract can end the female&#8217;s ability to have crias. Always be aware if you are assisting a delivery that the reproductive tract of the llama is relatively susceptible to damage. Recall the adage, “Do no harm,” and get help if you need it.</p>
<p>Some features of old age cannot be prevented but certainly must be considered when managing older animals. Many older llamas develop cataracts (opacities in the lens of the eye). If the cataracts become dense, the animal can have trouble seeing. Like many elderly people, predictable patterns and familiar surroundings are more important to the older llama. Moving an elderly llama to a new pasture can cause distress that may be exacerbated if the pasture mates are unknown animals. As animals age, fiber regrowth will slow, and therefore frequency of shearing should be decreased, or shearing should be stopped. Some older animals will have such a light coat that they’ll become extremely cold sensitive. Blanketing these animals in the winter will help. The older llama may also be less tolerant of high environmental temperatures and should be watched carefully on those hot summer days. It is also important to continue to manage for parasite control. Older animals’ immune systems don&#8217;t function as well as when they were younger. Subsequently, they may have increasing problems with parasites as compared to their middle-aged comrades. Finally, remember to keep the toenails trimmed so the toes are in proper alignment. The toe joints will stay in better shape over time.</p>
<p>As with any aging animal, more careful attention to the condition, attitude and overall health is important. Watch for changes in behavior, eating habits, and mobility. Check body condition, teeth, and parasite load more frequently than you did when they were younger. Above all, begin with sound, well-conformed, healthy young animals and practice good management with them throughout their lives.</p>
<p>Reproduced from <a target="_blank" href="http://oregonstate.edu/" title="Oregon State University">http://oregonstate.edu/</a>with permission of Susan Tornquist. Copyright © Oregon State University</p>
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		<title>Paralysis + B Vitamin Problems</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=32</link>
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		<pubDate>Fri, 03 Aug 2007 21:10:03 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Farm Tips]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Here is one I learned the hard way. Always keep some B-complex on hand, and do NOT keep it in the refrigerator.  B-complex should be kept at room temperature, or it will be ruined. Last year I had an alpaca go down.  We could find nothing wrong with her.  After a quick call to Steve [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt" class="MsoNormal"><font face="Times New Roman">Here is one I learned the hard way. Always keep some B-complex on hand, and do NOT keep it in the refrigerator.<span>  </span>B-complex should be kept at room temperature, or it will be ruined.</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman">Last year I had an alpaca go down.<span>  </span>We could find nothing wrong with her. <span> </span>After a quick call to Steve Hull, he suggested we give her a shot of B-complex.<span>  </span>(The amount does vary depending on the B-complex.)<span>  </span>Amazingly within a short time she was up, and acting much better.<span>  </span>We continued giving her the B-complex shots, as instructed by Steve.<span>  </span>I really believe this saved her life.</font></p>
<p><font face="Times New Roman"> </font><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman'">The issue was caused by a fungus that is prevalent certain times of the year.<span>  </span>It inhibits the absorption of B vitamins. <span> </span></span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman'"><span>Mountain Ash Farm</span></span></p>
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		<title>Bovine Ecolizer &amp; Cria</title>
		<link>http://alpacasofoklahoma.com/?p=31</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 02 Aug 2007 21:00:16 +0000</pubDate>
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				<category><![CDATA[Farm Tips]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[This important tip was given to me by Steve Hull.  Always keep Bovine Ecolizer +C on hand when you have cria due.  When a cria is born it must be given to them in the first 2-3 hours after birth.  This is important to help  prevent ecoli disease. Mountain Ash Farm]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman'">This important tip was given to me by Steve Hull.<span>  </span>Always keep Bovine Ecolizer +C on hand when you have cria due.<span>  </span>When a cria is born it must be given to them in the first 2-3 hours after birth.<span>  </span>This is important to help <span> </span>prevent </span><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman'">ecoli disease.</span></p>
<p><span style="font-size: 12pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman'">Mountain Ash Farm</span></p>
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